  “These six wines represent unrivalled value — I give you my word. Each bottle tells a story of vintage, vineyard, and mastery, and offers an experience that simply cannot be replicated elsewhere at this price point.”  In the heart of Western Australia’s celebrated Margaret River, where ancient soils meet the cooling breath of the Indian Ocean, lies one of the region’s most quietly compelling producers: Fermoy Estate. Tucked into the prized Wilyabrup subregion, Fermoy doesn’t shout for attention. It doesn’t need to. Its wines speak in a language of precision, poise, and place. Established in 1985, Fermoy Estate was founded on a simple but ambitious idea: to craft wines of structure and elegance from meticulously farmed vineyards. The gravelly loam soils of Wilyabrup - among the most coveted in Margaret River - provide the backbone for its Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, varieties that thrive in the maritime climate. Warm days coax depth and ripeness from the fruit, while cool ocean breezes preserve natural acidity and finesse. The result? Wines that feel composed rather than showy, more Savile Row than fast fashion. Fermoy’s signature lies in balance. Its Cabernet Sauvignon, often regarded as the estate’s calling card delivers cassis, cedar and fine, graphite-like tannins. The Reserve bottling elevates that structure, layering dark fruit with savoury complexity and age-worthy refinement. In a region celebrated for headline names, Fermoy Estate has carved its reputation through consistency and quiet excellence. The tyranny of the numbers game: Wine is one of the most subjective pleasures in the world and often shaped by mood, memory, culture and cuisine. Yet critics’ scores reduce it to a single, seemingly objective metric. A 95 becomes “good.” A 99 becomes “great.” And anything below 93? Often dismissed outright. This fixation on numerical shorthand does more than simplify wine - it diminishes curiosity. Increasingly, the score eclipses the story and the content. The ultimate absurdity arrives when a soaring number is paired with a limp, generic tasting note. If the writing offers little insight, one must ask: what exactly justified those points? And more pointedly — does the critic possess the craft to articulate why the wine is exceptional? I am far from convinced. The responsibility, however, does not lie solely with critics. Wineries themselves have fuelled the cycle. The race to secure headline scores before a wine is even released has become feverish, and, at times, ridiculous. Marketing strategies are built around anticipated points; release dates hinge on them. In some cases, it seems producers are seeking validation for everything short of hanging out the washing. When numbers dominate the narrative, both sides risk losing sight of what truly matters: authenticity in the glass and integrity in the telling of its story. Recently, I read a note from a leading critic awarding a wine 100 points. Yet there was not a single reference to aroma or flavour. No mention of perfume, fruit profile, texture or structure. Had the wine’s name been removed, there would have been no clue as to whether it was red or white. The score suggested transcendence; the prose conveyed almost nothing. Within 24 hours, the producer had splashed the number and the clipped commentary across social media as though it were a coronation. The nuance (or lack thereof) was irrelevant. The headline figure was all that mattered. Utterly ridiculous. Excellence should always be celebrated. But too often the commentary surrounding it feels hollow. When a perfect score is divorced from meaningful description and then paraded as gospel, it exposes a culture more interested in optics than substance. It leaves a blunt, uncomfortable question hanging in the air: what are we actually buying - a bottle of wine or a number? There is something faintly tragic about watching a profound, agricultural, deeply human product reduced to a bold numeral and a recycled paragraph. Wine is shaped by soil and season, by risk, judgement and restraint. It carries the imprint of climate and the quiet decisions made in the vineyard and cellar. It deserves language that captures its perfume, its texture, its tension - not marketing copy. Wine should stir conversation, not blood pressure (mine frequently threatens to spike). When numbers overshadow narrative and hyperbole replaces insight, something essential is lost. The magic of wine lies not in its score but in its story, its individuality, its ability to surprise and move us. Strip that away, and all that remains is a ranking system - tidy, convenient, and utterly inadequate to the complexity in the glass. Like the social media ban for under sixteens, I can’t help but wonder when will average wine critics face the same kind of accountability? Or, at the very least, be called out for what they are - handing out inflated scores and hollow tasting notes while masquerading as arbiters of taste. The parallels are striking. Just as platforms recognise the harm of exposing young minds to unfiltered content, perhaps the wine world needs a reckoning with those who prioritise optics over substance. A 100 point (or 20/20) sticker should be earned, explained, and contextualised - not flung around like digital confetti. Until then, consumers are left chasing numbers while missing the story, and the integrity of wine criticism quietly erodes. Thursday, 19 February: I was in discussion with an Australian wine producer about purchasing one or two wines. Within the very first sentence, they said, and I quote, “I believe X has given it a fantastic write-up, too.” What should have been the response? Something along the lines of: Instead, the conversation leaned immediately on the critic’s praise - the score, the review, the third-party validation. It’s a telling moment and I am bored of it / them… The day someone finally says, “Enough with the empty prose and meaningless scores,” will be a small victory for wine, and for anyone who still believes tasting should be about curiosity and a wonderful experience… There’s a world of difference between tasting wine blind and knowing what’s in your glass. Blind tasting strips away labels, prices, and reputations, forcing you to focus purely on aroma, flavour, and balance. It’s the ultimate test - a £20 bottle can feel just as thrilling as a £100 one, and your palate learns to judge on merit alone. Whoever you are, visiting a winery and sampling wines in person can completely transform your appreciation.. Some of the most respected critics (in my books) rarely receive invites to these showy winery events or are sent samples. Why? Their honesty makes them too unpredictable for the marketing machine. Fermoy has long been no stranger to awards — platinum and gold medals line its shelves, a testament to years of excellence. Yet after 26 years as a professional wine buyer, there is one honour that stands above all others: the Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA) Best in Show. Reserved for the exceptional few, Best in Show represents the pinnacle of global winemaking. Each year, thousands of wines from across the world are poured and rigorously judged by Masters of Wine, Master Sommeliers, and senior buyers. Multiple blind tastings (sampled in a bland room environment), regional panels, and Platinum rounds whittle the field to just around 50 wines — a fraction of a percent of entries. Winning this accolade signals more than high scores. It speaks of precision, balance, personality, and a profound sense of place. Best in Show is a wine’s ultimate seal of excellence - a quiet declaration that, in that glass, you are tasting something truly world-class. I spent much of this week re-sampling the six vintages, and what strikes me most is the remarkable vintage variation — who ever said the New World lacked terroir? Yet despite their differences, the quality is unwavering. Each wine is of the highest standard, showcasing exactly what Margaret River can achieve on the world stage. Every vintage tells its own story, yet all six are mesmerising — truly so, from the first sip to the last. As promised, and to broaden our offerings, I’ve spent much of this year sampling wines from beyond Australia, and I will continue to do so. Yet, regardless of a wine’s prestige or price, nothing comes close to these six Fermoy Cabernet Sauvignon vintages. Mid-week, I opened a Bordeaux from the magical 2010 vintage, crafted by Alain Vauthier of the famed Château Ausone (though it wasn’t Ausone itself). The wine was delicious, its quality evident in the vintage and the experienced hands that shaped it. And yet, the 2015 vintage from Fermoy eclipsed it. My tasting note barely does it justice (I will open another bottle and elaborate). Pricing: One of the things we value is being the exclusive agent for most of our Australian producers. Too often, wines are exported to the UK and then sold on through multiple merchants, each layer adding its own profit margin. We’ve seen it firsthand: wines we once sold for around £30 now retail at £45 when handled by larger importers. Does that make them better? Not in our view. We never buy wines that are average. In most cases, you’re simply paying extra to line the coffers of middlemen, not to enjoy a superior bottle. To celebrate the vertical collection, we offered all our customers several options: two mini-verticals or the full collection. Pricing for all was incredibly good value. Yet, we received over thirty emails from customers requesting the ability to purchase by-the-bottle. With that volume, it would have been remiss not to listen. So, your wishes are now realised - buy whatever you wish. May I respectfully ask, that you read my tasting notes carefully. Align your own palate with the detailed notes I’ve provided to truly appreciate what’s in the glass. Finally, these six wines represent unrivalled value — I give you my word. Each bottle tells a story of vintage, vineyard, and mastery, and offers an experience that simply cannot be replicated elsewhere at this price point. Have a great weekend (Let’s hope England turn up on Saturday!), Stu “The overriding impression is one of ineffable completeness: poised, nuanced, and sophisticated. A very smart wine indeed.”  2015 Fermoy Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon  Stuart McCloskey, tasted 18th February 2026 “Heralding from the high-quality 2015 vintage, this wine translates beautifully in the glass. I love the bouquet, which deftly straddles the styles of its birthplace and the Left Bank of Bordeaux. RRP £68.00 “All in all, this is a composed and very serious Margaret River Cabernet that speaks clearly of its vintage and place - and does so with conviction. Top class.”  2016 Fermoy Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Stuart McCloskey, tasted 18th February 2026 “Almost the perfect vintage in Margaret River, 2016 will long be remembered as one of the region’s benchmarks. It was a particularly strong year for Chardonnay, Semillon, and Sauvignon Blanc, while the reds were equally impressive, with Cabernet Sauvignon especially noted for its palate density, structural integrity, and lifted varietal definition. Ten years on, that promise has delivered. A strong tick for palate density - very much a hallmark of this wine. The bouquet is night and day compared to the 2015: brooding and reticent at first, it demands airtime - two to three hours in a decanter is required. With patience, it slowly unfurls (work with it). Deep scents of mulberry and dark plum emerge, followed by a sweet core of black raspberry and crème de cassis. Layers of anise, graphite and charcoal follow, interwoven with subtle clove, garrigue and a savoury note of cold black tea. A distinct mineral thread runs throughout, and further aromatics build the longer the wine sits in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied, anchored by that signature density yet shaped by finely etched tannins and beautifully judged acidity. Flavour and texture are both ripe (inherent to the vintage) yet there is vibrancy and energy in abundance. The precision is wonderful - pitch-perfect. A graphite-laced structure frames the fruit seamlessly. Today, it feels complete, though it still carries the quality and power for further evolution. Drink now with extended decanting or cellar confidently through 2036 and perhaps beyond. All in all, this is a composed and very serious Margaret River Cabernet that speaks clearly of its vintage and place - and does so with conviction. Top class. Served using Zalto Bordeaux glass.” 18 months maturation in a combination of 66% new and 33% 2nd-use French oak barriques from a selection of renowned Bordeaux cooperages. RRP £64.00 “A monument to the greatness of Margaret River. Truly world class.”  2017 Fermoy Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Trophy for Best Older Red Wine at the 2021 Wine Show of WA Stuart McCloskey, tasted 18th February “2017 was a year that challenged and ultimately reshaped the Cabernet Sauvignons of Margaret River. By the end of harvest and through the post-fermentation tastings, it was clear that what began as a testing season would be remembered as a great vintage. It is difficult not to draw comparisons with Bordeaux however, Margaret River Cabernets possess a distinct identity - uniquely and unmistakably terroir-driven. They represent a rare convergence of climate, geography, vine age, and winemaking philosophy. Few regions in the world consistently produce Cabernet Sauvignon with such a compelling combination of power, perfume, precision, and value. The bouquet quite literally weakens the knees - one of those rare, goosebump-inducing moments. Super-dense and seemingly bottomless, the aromatics soar from the glass with crème de cassis, Chinese five spice, boozy black cherry pie and violets lead the way. Notes of Szechuan pepper and dried rose petals follow, intertwined with wood smoke, sea spray and nori. Anise, black olive brine and a twist of orange zest bring up the rear and add more complexity. It feels almost indecent in its allure - the sort of perfume that could be bottled and worn by anyone. Flamboyant, sensual, irresistible. Completely addictive. I’m hooked before even taking the first sip. Equally astonishing on the palate, the wine delivers in every respect. Flavour and texture flow effortlessly, seemingly without end. Medium-to-full-bodied, the black and blue fruits are rich and densely packed, yet never heavy. This is what sets Margaret River Cabernet apart from many of its New World counterparts. Ripeness and flavour held in perfect tension with beautiful freshness. In the very best examples (such as this) - you truly experience the best of both worlds: generosity and precision, power and poise. The mouthfeel is pure decadence (though never overripe), framed by fantastically velvety tannins. Seamless, wonderfully fresh and seemingly endless on the finish. A monument to the greatness of Margaret River. Truly world class. Drink now or cellar for 20 years. Served using Zalto Bordeaux stemware.” Ray Jordan “These old vines were some of the first on the property. Hand-picked and fermented before 18 months in oak. This is a most stylish cabernet that expresses its power and intensity with a certain elegance. Black fruits with a bay leaf graphite edge scream cabernet. The tannins are long and fine and the oak well managed to ensure it's cradled towards a very long finish. Cellar: 20 years” Campbell Mattinson, James Halliday.com 18 June 2021 “A substantial red wine, but a svelte one. Creamy oak on curranty fruit with mulberry, tobacco and bay leaf as highlights. There's quite a lot of oak here, but the balance hasn't been thrown. Fruit quality is exemplary.” RRP £60.00 “A profound and complete Cabernet that transcends expectation and speaks with absolute clarity of place.”  2018 Fermoy Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Gold at the 2023 Decanter World Wine Awards Stuart McCloskey, tasted 19th February 2026 “A profound and complete Cabernet that transcends expectation and speaks with absolute clarity of place. The bouquet is immediately arresting - a fleeting suggestion of mature Pinot-like lift gives way to unmistakable Cabernet authority. Layers unfold with calm precision: forest floor, wild mushroom, damp cellar, juniper and bay leaf, all threaded with an enduring saline minerality. There is something paradoxical here — the aromatics are potent yet calming. A distinct seashore character pervades, an iodine-laced ocean breeze carrying through darker fruits and earthy complexity. It is evocative and contemplative rather than forceful. One of my favourite perfumes. With more air, saddle leather and iodine complexity rise seamlessly from the glass. The aromatics are commanding in depth, composed and addictive. The palate is nothing short of sublime. Silken - cashmere and velvet in texture, yet structurally perfect. Graphite-fine tannins are perfectly integrated, carrying a core of blue and black fruits that move effortlessly toward tertiary nuance. There is extraordinary harmony between fruit density, savoury detail, and acidity - nothing protrudes, nothing is forced. The finish lingers for minutes. Decant for an hour if drinking now. While already magnificent, the balance and tannin architecture indicate a wine destined for its apogee in 8–10 years. I bet this could be something very, very special. Possibly my favourite vintage.” Erin Larkin, Robert Parker.com July 2023 “The 2018 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon is forthright, full-bodied and complex, shaped by a savory skein of tannin that thrusts through the mouth. There are notes of tobacco leaf, blackberry bramble, cassis and raspberry. This shows a balance and power that feels naturally inherent in the wine. The season was excellent, unmarred by heat spikes or weather events, the seemingly unending hunger of the silvereyes (birds) sated by the profusion of marri blossom during that summer. You can drink the 2018s now; they are plush and full of pleasure, but they are at the beginning of a very long road and are only just starting to hint at the potential to come. 14.5% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.” I specifically requested a vertical of both the Reserve Chardonnay and Reserve Cabernet, as I have been repeatedly impressed by both of these wines over the past several years. They show up extremely well in masked lineups (tastings, wine shows and the like) and did not let me down in this tasting. The Cabernets seem to be built around a core of pure cassis fruit and have a flow and clarity in the mouth that is most beguiling. The 2018 and 2019 wines are astoundingly good, and I am very excited to see these wines in a decade or more. Winemaker Jeremy "Jez" Hodgson is doing brilliant things here.” 98 Points - Ray Jordan “Pure and powerful Margaret River cabernet from right in the Wilyabrup dress circle. Opens with a salvo of fruit nuances on the nose. Blackcurrant and blackberry with some interesting blue fruit touches. Then there is the lifted bay leaf and minerally oyster shell. It is so classically cabernet. The palate is elegantly presented but deeply intense with dark fruits lifted by that bay leaf and slightly graphite edge. Fine grained oak and fine firmish tannins hold the line to focus on a long finish.” RRP £56.00 “I’ve come to the view that Fermoy Estate Reserve Cabernet now sits comfortably among the region’s elite. Magnificent.”  2019 Fermoy Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Best Cabernet Trophy at 2022 Royal Sydney Wine Show Stuart McCloskey, tasted 19th February 2026 “Inescapably Margaret River. The marine signature is immediate and unmistakable - black nori, crushed oyster shell, the oceanic scent of the tide retreating over warm sand. Beneath the saline inflection lies a core of pure cassis, mulberry, blueberry and blackcurrant, all framed by cooling graphite. It’s a brooding, intensely perfumed Cabernet that requires time; a few hours in the decanter are essential. With significant airtime, the wine unfurls into something deeper and more savoury - resting beef juices, woodsmoke, Mediterranean herbs (bay leaf) and a pinch of sea salt. The elements knit together seamlessly. This is Margaret River at its most atmospheric and complete. The palate is sublime - silken in texture, yet architecturally precise. Graphite-laced tannins weave through ripe blue and black fruits effortlessly. A tangible savouriness emerges - tobacco leaf and dried herbs which add to the complexity. I’ve come to the view that Fermoy Estate Reserve Cabernet now sits comfortably among the region’s elite. While showing beautifully today, its structure and composure suggest a wine destined for three decades in the cellar, and likely beyond. Magnificent.” Erin Larkin, James Halliday.com “100% Houghton clone from Wilyabrup. Hand picked from 35yo vines, partial wild ferment, 3 weeks on skins, matured in French oak for 18 months (57% new). Houghton clone + Wilyabrup = a great match. Somehow the dirt and sky here combine with the clone to produce a decidedly red, supple, succulent style of cabernet. Also, it must be said here, Fermoy is on the up: watch this star rise. This is precisely as we hope: bright, spicy, layered with raspberry, pomegranate, red licorice and pink peppercorn. In the mouth it is exactly thus, with the added bonus of spring flowers, crushed graphite and Pink Lady Apples. Gold medal Royal Adelaide Wine Show 2021.” RRP £51.50 “Worth every penny and better than many of its more expensive neighbours.”  2020 Fermoy Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Best in Show, 2024 Decanter World Wine Awards Decanter judges’ comments: “Do Cabernet Sauvignon and Margaret River go together? Well, it’s the fourth time that the combination has been featured in our Best In Show selection – so yes, they do. Three of those laureates, intriguingly, have come from the high-quality, low-quantity 2020 vintage – and if this wine is anything to go by, it’s a vintage which is taking its time to reach even early maturity. This wine remains an opaque black-red in colour, with admirably pure and restrained aromas of shapely blackcurrant lent freshening complexity by bush and scrub notes – a single sniff is transporting. The wine is concentrated and refined on the palate. Not merely fruity, though there is plenty of that ‘noble’ blackcurrant to enjoy, but the fruit is lent shade and nuance by the biotope allusions evident on the nose. The tannins and acids are measured and proportionate; the ripeness well-judged; and the wine moves through the mouth with easy, drinkable grace.” Stuart McCloskey, tasted May 2025 “I will come clean – I failed to understand all the hype when I first sampled the wine. I found it a tad tough and angular. Today, this feels rested and a giver of joy. The perfume exudes Margaret River charm and is awash with blackcurrant, cassis, violet, sea spray, peppermint, white pepper, fresh sage along with a waft of sweet, piping tobacco. The palate radiates elegance and charm, but not at the expense of the fruit, which flows in a stream of ripe blue and black berries. The interplay with the tannins is genius. Structured, sculptured, seductive, and delivered by a winemaker wearing velvet gloves. The length is mightily impressive – I do like the sorbet-esque tang to the acidity. The wine’s x-factor is noticeable however, and what I find most attractive, it’s not a showy style of wine. A fine, regal, sophisticated and a flawless expression of its region. In the context of today’s article - this is not inexpensive, but I will argue that it is worth every penny and better than many of its more expensive neighbours. A wine of charming beauty that will continue to provide a decade or more of pleasure. Rather addictive, too. Sample number three and it’s only 11:30am! Served using Zalto Bordeaux glassware. I am really looking forward to enjoying the remainder tonight (using Burgundy stemware, which could be the better choice). Decant for an hour… Praise be.” Jane Faulkner, James Halliday.com “It might be a reserve wine, but there’s no need to wait. It would be hard to, anyway, as this is gorgeous. Superfine and long with powdery tannins; there’s latent power almost within yet it hovers around medium bodied. It’s structured and detailed, laden with flavour and the oak makes its presence known but not overtly so – it adds cedar and antique wood aromas plus another layer of tannins. There are also mulberries and blueberries and a kitchen cupboard full of spices. Take it all in. Slowly.” RRP £52.00  Fermoy Reserve Cabernet 6 Pack Vertical Fermoy Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon containing one bottle from each vintage 2015 / 2016 / 2017 / 2018 / 2019 / 2020 RRP £351.50 Our special price £222.00  Fermoy Reserve Cabernet 3 Pack Vertical 2015 / 2016 / 2017 3 pack price @ £111.00 RRP £192.00 Each pack contains one bottle of 2015, 2016 & 2017 Fermoy Reserve Cabernet 3 Pack Vertical 2018 / 2019 / 2020 3 pack price @ £111.00 RRP £159.50 Each pack contains one bottle of 2018, 2019 & 2020  |
