 The Selection is Atrocious: Aussie wine in pubs / restaurants - take II Missed part I? (or perhaps a little refresh…) – here’s the link Based on the comings and goings on WBM – one of our regular customers (David R) took to the task of unearthing / investigating the state of Australian wine listings in pubs and restaurants in the UK. We share David’s findings… "Here are my findings on the state of Australian wine listings in pubs and restaurants in the UK. Hope you find it interesting... The Method I compiled a list of 65 randomly selected restaurants and pubs in towns and cities all over England and looked at their wine lists as most publish their offerings on their website.They were selected just on the basis of a Google search. The Basic Facts Conclusions and Further Discussions Stu’s reply (the insider view) Firstly, a huge thank you to David as this was a serious undertaking (and a time consuming one)… Understanding the buying rationale of each restaurant / pub is impossible however, the pattern is clearly evident. It is the same with many, UK independent wine merchants who place Australia a long way down on their respective offerings. Every year The Wine Merchant carries out the most comprehensive study of the UK independent wine trade. This year’s survey of independents involved more than 200 businesses. Where does Australian wine sit with these 200? Biggest sellers: Australia sits 12 out of 20. Most interesting Country / Region: Australia sits 11 out of 20 Italy takes top spot for both categories followed by France, Portugal, Spain and South Africa. The UK is the largest export market for Australian wine by volume, contributing 33 per cent of total volume exported in the 12 months to December 2024. In this period, 212 million litres were shipped from Australia to the UK, worth $352 million. Based on these figures – much of what is shipped is of low value and destined for supermarkets, cash and carries, bulk rubbish for pubs etc… Let’s look at one of my locals – it has a Michelin Star and serves excellent food. Their wine list is extensive, but not one of those showy encyclopaedias. Five Aussie white wines and 14 reds are being offered. Burgundy, Bordeaux, Italy, Spain (much of Europe) are overrepresented. The USA, arguably overpriced (even at cost), has more listings than Australia, as does South Africa. In line with the opinion of 200 independent wine merchants – the ‘classics’ are winning hands down. There’s little love for Australia and almost zero effort. Torbreck The Steading, which many of you know is being offered at £105 per bottle. At this price, those who know Aussie wines wouldn’t touch this with a barge pole. Wine list intimidation continues to exist along with customers not being comfortable with articulating how much they are willing to spend. Equally, those in the know object to paying excessive premiums on a bottle of wine and reason why I frequent eateries less and less. That said, most offer the opportunity to take your own and pay corkage - £30 in this establishment. The Aussie wine industry is in a pickle, and they need to wake-up quickly. As previously cited – the volume of exorbitantly expensive wines continues to increase. Unquestionably, the fashion for $100 per bottle (that previously sold for $50) continues to rise. It is beyond daft as every winemaker I have spoken to this year all state the same - $50 bottles are a tough sell. Sadly, there are too many producers that do not have the balls to reposition their wine prices. Accordingly, Australia – please stop whinging as you only have yourself to blame. Moreover, far too many producers are either naïve to what is going on with the wine world (outside of Oz) or prefer to bury their heads in the sand. This years Bordeaux En-Primeur campaign being a case in point. It’s on its knees and perhaps the last campaign the wine world will see. However, the Bordelaise know the dire position they are in and have / are taking steps to confront the challenge. Tuesday 29 April: Château Lafite Rothschild released at £1,713 per six bottles - a reduction of 27% on last year’s failed price and circa 15% lower than the current market price of any vintage of Lafite in the market. One, reputable merchant stated, ‘One has to go back 16 years to find a lower release price than this.’ I bought and sold Lafite for 17-years – the wine that Asia adored and the darling of China. But the Chinese fine wine market has practically disappeared. Great for Australia however, where will Australia go if China imposed another crippling tariff? Did Lafite sell? Not really, which has shocked many. Some UK merchants have been very aggressive with their sales pitches. Ordinarily, Lafite is an immediate sell-out. The ’24 remains widely available. Château Montrose has been in fine form and rivalling the first-growths. They released their ’24 at £507 per case of six bottles - a 30% reduction on last year’s price. Again, this remains widely available. On Wednesday Aussie producer, Henschke released their 2021 single vineyard vintage which included: Hill of Grace Shiraz / Hill of Roses / Mount Edelstone Shiraz / The Wheelright Shiraz / Cyril Henschke Cabernet Sauvignon. Pricing is ridiculous and more expensive than some of the great names of Bordeaux, which have a history of increasing in value (some substantially). Prices per case of six (excluding duty and vat) unless otherwise mentioned Hill of Grace Shiraz @ £1,500.00 per case of 3 / Mount Edelstone Shiraz @ £700.00 / The Wheelright Shiraz @ £540.00 / Cyril Henschke Cabernet Sauvignon @ £550.00. Some will add to their growing Henschke collections however, much of the world will give them a miss. It’s not often that Château Lafite looks cheap against an Aussie wine! Conclusion: Too many Aussie wines are overpriced, and too many importers prefer the easy route of selling them to brokers or merchants who are willing to take-up the challenge. Some importers sell their entire allocation to one merchant, and reason why these wines have little to no exposure / traceability in the UK. Of course, I understand the desire to retain exclusivity over a wine. In addition - given the general mark-up of circa 300% that most eateries add to wines, why would you pay such daft prices? On the current trajectory - I foresee and fear that high quality Aussie wines will continue their downward trend in the UK. Consumer interest is certainly declining in the UK and one reason why many of those 200-independent merchants prefer to place their money in wines that sell more regularly. Australia is no longer a safe bet, which is daft as the market is ripe and ready for them to step-up and wake-up. Consumers must also take some responsibility as less wine is being sold (regardless of outlet)…    2020 Fermoy Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon - The World's Best Cabernet Sauvignon...  A year in the life of a wine… It’s almost a year since we sampled the 2020 Fermoy Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon and close to six-months since its arrival from the Margaret River. As experience has shown, a little resting time does the world of good. We are referring to the term ‘bottle shock’ which also encompasses bottle / travel sickness. I know, I know – it sounds like one of those newfangled, fashionable illnesses however, it’s true (you may recall our previous article ‘is bottle shock a myth?’) Regardless of myth or truth, it’s time we opened a bottle and shared our tasting note…  "Structured, sculptured, seductive, and delivered by a winemaker wearing velvet gloves. A fine, regal, sophisticated and a flawless expression of its region." Stuart McCloskey, tasted May 2025 "I will come clean – I failed to understand all the hype when I first sampled the wine. I found it a tad tough and angular. Today, this feels rested and a giver of joy. The perfume exudes Margaret River charm and is awash with blackcurrant, cassis, violet, sea spray, peppermint, white pepper, fresh sage along with a waft of sweet, piping tobacco. The palate radiates elegance and charm, but not at the expense of the fruit, which flows in a stream of ripe blue and black berries. The interplay with the tannins is genius. Structured, sculptured, seductive, and delivered by a winemaker wearing velvet gloves. The length is mightily impressive – I do like the sorbet-esque tang to the acidity. The wine’s X-Factor is noticeable however, and what I find most attractive, it’s not a showy style of wine. A fine, regal, sophisticated and a flawless expression of its region. In the context of today’s article - this is not inexpensive, but I will argue that it is worth every penny and better than many of its more expensive neighbours. A wine of charming beauty that will continue to provide a decade or more of pleasure. Rather addictive, too. Sample number three and it’s only 11:30am!. Served using Zalto Bordeaux glassware. I am really looking forward to enjoying the remainder tonight (using Burgundy stemware, which could be the better choice). Decant for an hour… Praise be." Winner of the prestigious Best in Show at the 2024 Decanter World Wine Awards and every other bloody award imaginable… Receiving Decanter’s ‘Best in Show’ is the pinnacle, awarded to the top fifty (0.27%) wines of the show. Remember there are 18,000 entries from across the world. Take a few minutes to view the Decanter video – you’ll understand the magnitude…  Video will open in a new tab The judges’ comments: "Do Cabernet Sauvignon and Margaret River go together? Well, it’s the fourth time that the combination has been featured in our Best In Show selection – so yes, they do. Three of those laureates, intriguingly, have come from the high-quality, low-quantity 2020 vintage – and if this wine is anything to go by, it’s a vintage which is taking its time to reach even early maturity. This wine remains an opaque black-red in colour, with admirably pure and restrained aromas of shapely blackcurrant lent freshening complexity by bush and scrub notes – a single sniff is transporting. The wine is concentrated and refined on the palate. Not merely fruity, though there is plenty of that ‘noble’ blackcurrant to enjoy, but the fruit is lent shade and nuance by the biotope allusions evident on the nose. The tannins and acids are measured and proportionate; the ripeness well-judged; and the wine moves through the mouth with easy, drinkable grace.”  2020 Fermoy Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Best in Show, 2024 Decanter World Wine Awards £44.50 per bottle  "This is on a higher level than other £20 bottles of Aussie Cabernets. Huge amount of wine for one’s money. Astonishing value in fact, which is Rob’s hallmark and mantra."  Rob Hall Cabernets 2023 Stuart McCloskey, tasted May 2025 "Packed with the most glorious perfume - violets, rose petal, anise, mint, blueberry, sweet pie crust, blackcurrant, redcurrant, spice, graphite, red pepper, iodine, lavender, and fresh bay leaf come galloping from my glass. The wine is medium-bodied and built in a ‘come get me now style’ but has the bones and quality to age for 6-8 years. The tannins are finely laced and the acidity is bright. Overall, the wine feels supple, succulent, and supremely clean – almost thirst quenching (if I am allowed to say!). Flavour-wise? Similar to the bouquet… Ripe, spiced, blue and black fruits, sweet spice, anise, cassis, redcurrant, fresh mint and lead pencil. This is on a higher level than other £20 bottles of Aussie Cabernets. Huge amount of wine for one’s money. Astonishing value in fact, which is Rob’s hallmark and mantra, “You really don’t need to spend big to drink greatness. The wines are so modestly priced that they are accessible to just about all wine lovers. I know what goes into wine, in terms of cost. Pricing a wine heavily, just for the sake of it, just because you can, goes against the spirit of it. I don’t want to see people having to save up to buy my wine.” Served using Zalto Bordeaux glassware (Burgundy will work)." 96 Points - Gold - Philip Rich, Halliday.com “A blend of 62/32/6% cabernet sauvignon/merlot/malbec. Rob knows a thing or two about cabernet, most likely, I'm guessing, from his days at Mount Mary. A brilliant, crimson purple, this fragrant wine leaps out of the glass with its bouquet of cassis, liqueur cherries, cedar, violets and just a soupçon of fresh tomato leaf. Medium bodied, this juicy-fruited wine is impeccably balanced with silky, persistent tannins that resonate throughout. If this was a pinot, it would be double the price.” £20.95 per bottle Buy 6 and pay £19.07 per bottle   "This wine tells a story and transports you to a better place... it’s not far off perfection. I can genuinely understand the wine’s release price. Without question this drinks like a £100+ bottle of wine." A month or two in the making – we are thrilled to offer the 2009 Meshach which has been stored in pristine condition. Originally released at $160 which was a steep price in those days (more than Standish is today!). Equally lavish was Accolade's attitude to their fine wine portfolio – they threw everything at each wine, which is commendable. Amazing fruit, respected winemakers, the best closures, wooden cases and lots of razzmatazz. With thanks to your support this year – Accolade / Vinarchy are happy to provide first refusal on many cellar beauties. In this case, we have 64 cases (6x75cl bottles) Save for two Aussie merchants, we seem to now own what is left… Interestingly, pricing has remained around the $160 to $195 mark. Our offer is rather special indeed. Only £40.50 when purchased as a six-pack. How does it taste after all these years? Stuart McCloskey, tasted May 2025 "All the fruit was lovingly hand harvested from vines ranging from 94 to 100+ years of age. Matured in new American and French oak hogsheads for two years. Originally released after 5-years of maturation. Extraordinarily inky black colour, which does not indicate the wine’s age. The bouquet is a different story as the wine has turned towards wonderfully complex, tertiary aromas of liquorice, beef broth, wood smoke, kirsch, spice-box, charcoal, graphite, pen ink, camphor, soy, kelp, warm earth, old leather, piping tobacco, mushroom consommé, earl grey tea, and comes to a rousing ending with menthol. I’ve said it before, and I will say it again – the aromatic complexity, one that evolves in my glass, provides as much pleasure as the act of drinking. I could genuinely spend hours swirling and sniffing. This is very much my kind of Aussie Shiraz – one that forces you to slow down and pay attention. Time has been very kind – the edges and tannins have been softened, pristine in its balance, a weightlessness without compromising on flavour. Overall, you are left with an unerring sense of harmony. It feels more like an aged Pinot Noir than a burly Shiraz… I can imagine myself sitting in a leather chair – in some posh, historic, London club, dipping the end of my imaginary fat cigar into my glass of ’09 Meshach. There is a sense of presence and grandeur - This wine tells a story and transports you to a better place. Amazingly, it has still not reached full maturity however, and for my palate, it’s not far off perfection. I can genuinely understand the wine’s release price. Without question this drinks like a £100+ bottle of wine. Served using Zalto Burgundy stemware (great for the bouquet). Decant for 1-2 hours and enjoy the wonderful journey. Drink now to 2030+."  Grant Burge Meshach Shiraz 2009 Our price: Last 37 bottles...  Grant Burge Nebu Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2018 Unquestionably, the best Cab / Shiraz wine in years and more delicious than Utopos (granted, that’s a tad unfair as this is a touch older…) Top tips: Serve in Zalto Burgundy or Bordeaux glass (Burgundy is best) / Decant for 1-2 hours / Serve on the cooler side of room temperature. Stuart McCloskey "Heavenly bouquet that ticks every, single box for me… The density and array of aromatics is astonishing...this is a sublime wine. Excruciatingly, good to great. Actually, one of the best Cab / Shiraz I have ever sampled...read more £35.00 per bottle New Special Standish Mixed Cases  Standish Special Four Bottle Case Contains one bottle of each of the following wines: Standish Relic 2019 (99-100 Points - Stuart McCloskey) Full Price: £342.00 per case (4x75cl)  Standish Special Three Bottle Case Contains one bottle of each of the following wines: Standish Relic 2019 (99-100 Points - Stuart McCloskey) Full Price: £256.50 per case (3x75cl)  Standish The Standish Special Three Bottle Case Contains one bottle of each of the following wines: Standish The Standish 2019 (99-100 Points - Stuart McCloskey) Full Price: £256.50 per case (3x75cl)  Standish The Relic Three Bottle Case Contains one bottle of each of the following wines: Standish The Relic 2018 (100 Points - Stuart McCloskey) Full Price: £242.50 per case (3x75cl)  Our favourite white wines to enjoy in the sunshine...  Villa Maria Reserve Albarino 2022 "A flavourful continental Albariño – the old world varietal with the new world style. There’s much to like and there’s nothing to criticise. Of course, you cannot drink a price-tag, but this is overwhelmingly underpriced… “I would happily pay double and perhaps a little more” £14.00 per bottle More stock of this delicious Albarino will be arriving on Thursday...  McHenry Hohnen Rocky Road Margaret River Chardonnay 2022 "Electric style, frisky and most certainly exciting and refreshing. An absolute winner... Would benefit from sunshine and a dunk in iced water." £18.00 per bottle  Massena The Surly Muse Viognier 2022 "Light and cloudy in colour with enticing aromas of tropical and stone fruit. Flavours of nectarine, passionfruit and lychee dominate with subtle hints of spice from partial oak maturation." Was £19.95 per bottle  Hardys HRB Riesling 2016 "Complexity comes in layers as does the wine's energy… Outright delicious and the sense of quality is unmistakable. Seriously good and faultless for the money." Was £19.99 per bottle |
