Stella Bella Chardonnay 2023

Stuart McCloskey, tasted 4 August 2026 “Hand-picked, whole-bunch pressed and wild fermented. The juice was cold settled for 24 hours before being transferred to a combination of new and seasoned French oak barriques, where fermentation occurred naturally. Bâtonnage was undertaken throughout maturation, guided entirely by taste, to build aromatic complexity, texture and precision rather than weight. The wine spent nine months in barrel before bottling.

The bouquet unfurls with pristine aromas of white peach, nectarine and lemon, intertwined with grapefruit zest, white blossom and a delicate hint of struck flint. Subtle nuances of roasted hazelnut, oatmeal and beautifully judged French oak add depth without ever overshadowing the fruit, which remains the undisputed star of the show.

The palate is beautifully poised, marrying Margaret River's hallmark precision with effortless composure. Layers of ripe stone fruit, preserved lemon and citrus peel glide across the palate, underpinned by a fine mineral thread and mouthwatering natural acidity. It remains taut and focused yet positively brimming with energy. The gentle tang of salinity is unmistakable - a wonderful reminder of the cooling sea breezes that shape Stella Bella's vineyards. I absolutely love this style.

Delicious today although it deserves to be served in a generously bowled Burgundy stem to fully reveal its aromatics and texture. Equally, it has the pedigree to reward at least a decade in a cool cellar. The perfect drinking window is, of course, entirely a matter of personal taste. For me, this will be utterly irresistible after a further six years in bottle, when its complexity and mineral nuance will have deepened beautifully. At that stage, I suspect it will make many considerably more expensive Chablis look rather ordinary. I’ll bet ten quid on that!” 

Jeni Port, Winepilot “Whole bunch pressed and wild fermented with some stylish winemaking in play, this is a Chardonnay dressed in layers of complexity. Fruit is the overlying layer in peach skin, Meyer lemon, grapefruit, quince tart, nectarine. Winemaking and time in oak offers a distinctive cashew nuttiness and buttery overtones. Together, they combine for good depth of flavour and texture. The lovely quince brightness to the palate – with just a little dash of tartness – really strikes a chord. Elegant and fresh.”

Jane Faulkner, Wine Companion "In a way, this is a bit of a sleeper. Slow to unfurl even if it immediately tastes delicious with its pink grapefruit, citrus rind and fresh ginger tang. Mouth-watering sulphides make an impression as the invigorating acidity surfaces, curling across the palate. Savoury, spicy, a little creamy yet flinty and fine, too. It’s tightly wound; let it breathe to reveal its detail or give it another year or so in the cellar. Either way, this is very good."

James Suckling "Precise and minerally aromas of lemon peel, lime zest, apples and flint. The palate is tightly wound, with a medium-bodied mouthfeel and laser-like acidity, giving notes of grapefruit, mandarin rind and river stones. Very pure and refined, with high energy. Drink or hold."