Larry Cherubino Uovo Chardonnay 2025

Stuart McCloskey, tasted 2 July 2026 “The 2025 UOVO Chardonnay continues Larry Cherubino's fascinating exploration of texture, purity and terroir. Fermented and matured entirely in clay-cement eggs (Uovo is Italian for "egg"), this is Chardonnay stripped back to its essentials. No oak. No winemaking cosmetics. Just exceptional fruit, an uncompromising sense of place and remarkable precision. The gentle, continuous movement of the lees within the ovoid vessels creates natural texture and complexity whilst preserving freshness, tension and crystalline purity.

I have now enjoyed three magnums (yes, rather decadent), which perhaps gives me licence to compare the standard bottle with its larger sibling.

Before delving into the minutiae of aromas and flavours, one thing should be said from the outset: this is simply a superb Chardonnay. Serve it in a Zalto Burgundy glass and prepare to be astonished by just how complete this wine is.

The bouquet is beautifully lifted and immediately captivating. White peach, nectarine and preserved lemon mingle with Meyer lemon zest, fresh ginger, sea spray and crushed chalk (very similar to the magnum). There is a coolness to the aromatics that speaks of the ocean, together with a wonderful purity that allows every note to emerge with effortless clarity.

The palate is wonderfully textural. There is tremendous energy coursing through the wine, yet the edges are beautifully softened, giving it an almost creamy composure without sacrificing a single ounce of freshness. Compared with the magnum, the 75cl feels a little more open and expressive. It is marginally less linear, a touch broader through the mid-palate and immediately more generous, whilst retaining the precision and mineral drive that define the UOVO style.

Every component feels perfectly judged. Citrus, stone fruit and saline minerality glide effortlessly across the palate before a long, chalky finish that seems to gather momentum with every sip. The absence of oak allows the fruit and surroundings to speak with complete honesty – there is no hiding!

Like all top Chardonnays, this is not about sheer power. It is about harmony, restraint, and effortless confidence. It whispers rather than shouts yet somehow leaves the louder wines trailing in its wake.

The magnum will undoubtedly reward long-term cellaring, but the 75cl is already drinking beautifully. If, like me, patience has never been your greatest virtue, you'll find enormous pleasure over the next five to seven years. Those with a cooler cellar / wine fridge and greater self-restraint will almost certainly be rewarded for waiting considerably longer. Sensational…”