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No images? Click here The UK's No.1 Australian Wine Specialist   Chapoutier is principally known for its remarkable Hermitage wines, which have received page after page of perfect 100-point scores… They are sublime, texturally heavenly, and they’re blooming expensive, too. Maison Chapoutier is known to many and dates to 1808, although it wasn't until Michel Chapoutier took control of the company in 1990 that its wines began to stand out. Michel does not sleep as the list of global vineyard acquisitions (including Australia) along with an enormous catalogue of wine is spectacular. Michel is described as unique, outside the box, curious about everything, and not of a fixed mind. He is alive. A character constantly in motion. Ideas, tastes, desires. “If I stay still, I fall.” Michel voices that he is nevertheless nothing like his heirs. His choices, his vision, are a break from the past and past prejudices. A winemaker? No, more of a farmer. He is an earth-dweller, and it is said that he ‘falls in love ten times a day. No half measures. He either loves it or he hates it. His quest is to reveal the terroirs – to highlight the expression of the soils. The one that will give each wine its signature taste, and reason why the collection is so vast. Michel has made a clear commitment to the free expression of the terroir and has steadily embraced biodynamic methods in the cultivation of all its vineyards, respecting nature's cycles and balances and giving more credence than ever to the house's motto, "Fac et spera" ('act and wait'), which highlights the effort and patience put into the work. Respect for the land and those who work on it, the originality of its initiatives (it was the first winery to have wine labels printed in braille). By mistake, our friends at Hatch (importers of Chapoutier) sent me a sample of the 2022 Crozes-Hermitage Les Meysonniers Blanc, which I opened at the weekend. Fortuitous or perhaps canny, as I purchased all remaining stocks (covering the below, four vintages). Unbeknown to Hatch - white, Rhône varietals are my weakness (Marsanne, Roussanne and Viognier being my favourites). Of course, not all bottles excite however, this one certainly did. 'Les Meysonniers' white wines epitomize the authentic character of Marsanne in the Crozes-Hermitage – an appellation shaped by the terraces of the Rhône and Isère rivers. The soil is a mixture of clay, pebbles and gravel. Each vintage is harvested at the perfect ripeness level, which floods through the wine’s glorious flavour and colour. Each wine is aged ‘on lees’ for 8-months. Essentially, and post fermentation, the wine rests (undisturbed) with the dead yeast cells (think Champagne). When decomposition takes place – fine lees release substances that enrich the wine’s mouthfeel (texture) and flavour.  “There’s a flamboyance to the wine's viscosity which I love... This is sensational and will not fail to deliver to all those seeking the ultimate textural and flavour experience.”  Crozes-Hermitage Les Meysonniers Blanc Four pack vertical containing one bottle of each vintage: 2019 / 2020 / 2021 / 2022 2022 Vintage - Stuart McCloskey "Liquid gold in colour – so beautiful in the glass. I opted for Zalto’s Burgundy stemware as this design allows the aromatic profusion to resonate like the full orchestra it deserves and without oxidising. Put simply, the bouquet is divine. Breathtaking, in fact… Ripe apricot, orange blossom, raw honey, honeysuckle, spiced poached apples and pears, buttered pineapple, tangerine and lemon oil, spiced ginger syrup, along with a fresh backdrop of minerality. There’s a flamboyance to the wine's viscosity which I love. This is not overdone or unbalanced – this is sensational and will not fail to deliver to all those seeking the ultimate textural and flavour experience. Layer-upon-layer of spiced poached fruits unfurl. Honeyed quince, apple, lemon and tangerine carry the wine along with ginger spicing and grandma’s apple pie with a heavily buttered crust… The freshness is unmissable as is the core of minerality. Totally seductive… Just wonderful. Drink now to 2035. Serve alone and without food…" £105.00 per case (4x75cl) The future influences the present just as much as the past A few interesting export facts (courtesy of Wine Australia) Total Value $2.48b / Total volume 639m litres / Average value $3.88 per litre Top 5 exports destination (by value) Top 5 exports (by varietal) Part 1… As reported in the UK’s Drinks Business - Australian wine exports are on the rise in value and volume in the year to June 2025, according to Wine Australia’s latest export report. However, analysts point out exports are still significantly down on pre-Covid levels, given the sector’s previous all-time lows in recent years. The reopening of the China market following the removal of tariffs on Australian bottled wine in March 2024 has been the primary driver behind the growth. Exports to mainland China reached AU$893 million, up 123% year-on-year, representing 85 million litres. However, Wine Australia Manager, Market Insights, Peter Bailey cautioned that growth is beginning to level off: “The quarter ended June 2025 was 35 per cent smaller in value than the same quarter in the previous year. This indicates that the level of exports to mainland China may be normalising after the initial re-stocking phase. “Despite the rebound, Bailey noted that Chinese demand remains significantly below previous highs. “The return of mainland China offers a valuable market, with global wine consumption at its lowest level since 1961. However, it has only had a small impact on total export volume, as the volume shipped to mainland China is half of what it was at its peak in 2018,” he said. “The market is now only a third of the size it was in 2019. In the past 12 months, imports from France, Italy, Spain, and Chile have all declined,” he added. I had a zoom meeting on Monday with a substantial Aussie wine group (their turnover for the year 2024 was in the region of $250 million). It was an interesting and frank conversation – I find meetings with the ‘bigger’ players more commercial, and that’s to be expected however, and what I love about many Aussie wine producers (regardless of their respective size) - there is little bullshit. As with all conversations – the discussion concerning domestic and international sales is at the forefront. How’s China I enquired? “Dead – they have literally stopped buying,” came the unexpected response. Outside of China – how’s the international market? “We’re all scrambling for the same business and trampling on each other…” Now, that’s honesty for you. One of their brands (one we are very interested in) recently had UK representation from a well-known importer. What happened? I asked. “Good question and we don’t really know… All the wines were on consignment, and they couldn’t sell them. It was very messy and costly to have to reposition six / seven SKUs which they didn’t pay for.” Much of the UK, business wine press is rather predictable. Often, it’s the same, dreary format, publishing uninteresting and bland news. It rarely delves deep and seldomly challenges. It does not like the rebels, the misfits, those who see things differently, and those who challenge. This month – the dreariest reported as follows, “Importer (I have removed their name) has announced the addition of XXX from Australia’s Yarra Valley to its portfolio. The move sees XXX Australian ranks swell.” Two weeks prior to this press release – I received an email from the importer’s sales director who we know – He emailed with, “Do you want first dibs?” Hang on for a minute, and as per my Zoom call on Monday - these swelling giants couldn’t sell great, Aussie wine that they didn’t pay for, and if possible, now want to offload as much of the new stuff onto The Vinorium. 29 July – same press source, ‘Australian winemaker Ben Haines wants to cut out the middleman. Ben, who has joined Hong Kong-based food distributor To-Plate as head beverage curator, is on a mission to get small producers “in front of big clients” and “weed out” intermediaries.’ Well, butter my biscuits. Who would have thought that cutting out the middleman was a good idea! Honestly, where has everyone been for the past 7-8 years, as we have been operating exactly in this way. I have said it before and I will say it again - there is little to no room for three in the bed. Either the importer goes direct, or you cut the importer out. It’s a touch more complicated as it’s a no-no for importers to sell directly to the public and attempt to sell to indies. We saw the backlash during Covid. That said, some continue to work in this way, albeit under different names. Equally, it is nigh-on impossible for indies to employ enough reps to bash down the doors of clubs, hotels, restaurants etc… Also, the cost of funding the stocks and the credit terms. You would think common sense would prevail however, and after 25-years in this industry, it is getting worse. I have never seen the wine market (including fine wine) at this low, level. Day-to-day, I don’t give a monkey’s as we have always protected our position. Of course, we cannot protect ourselves from stupid government policies and the world around us, but we can, and do, fiercely defend our bunker. I also take a step back and respect that everyone needs to make a living, but and to quote my Zoom call on Monday they’re, “all scrambling for the same business and trampling on each other.” It is super-tough in our sector, and we are not protected from the realities. We feel the pinch, that’s for sure… We are seeing sizeable moves from some of the biggest importers and sizeable reductions from the smaller ones. It reminds me of Asian hornets, hovering outside of a hive, and picking off the hardworking honeybees. Sporadically, and only when prices suit, we have worked with one small importer for quite a few years. I acknowledge this lack of continuity is not helpful. Recently, they have lost several of their major wineries to one of the ‘big boys’. On Monday we received an email from the rep that has served this company for the past 11-years – he’s also jumped ship (to the same company) and will be available to service our requirements in the coming days. We now wonder when this importer will close its doors as the signs are sadly, worrying… Technology aside - the UK wine market is outdated as is much of Australia’s perception that channelling their wines through a large importer is the best solution. It’s such an old school mentality that lacks the reality of the world we operate in today. Granted, if you insist on your wines being seen on the lists of fine restaurants, then you have little choice as most indies, small scale importers and The Vinorium do not have the man / womanpower to help. However, and if you read, ‘The truth about Aussie fine wine in the UK...’ and Andrew Margan’s letter to WBM titled ‘How did it come to this?’ then they will be very disappointed with the outcome (as was the person I Zoomed on Monday). They also need to realise that their pride and joy sits amongst a list of 1,000+ wines. Moreover, all reps are struggling to make sales, and too many Aussie wines are overpriced. A restaurant buyer / sommelier is going to be very reluctant to add a £100+ Aussie Chardonnay to their list – the public is not going to buy it (as Andrew found on his extensive travels). Consequently, reps are looking for an easy sale – any sale… Regardless of size and scalability – not all wines work. Previously, we have shipped wines (and in sizeable volumes) that have been a complete flop. Why? We haven’t a clue as pricing was super-keen. What worked prior and during Covid does not necessarily work today. In some cases the same wine (different vintage) offered at the same price struggles to sell (or certainly at the same level). Less money in our pockets being the main, contributing factor A friend and colleague of mine has a small vineyard in the UK. He also knows parts of the Aussie wine market very well – he flits between the two. We had a recent conversation, which inevitably commenced with, ‘how’s business and what’s happening in your sector?’ He explained that some English wineries (and some big names) are increasingly exploring financing options secured against their harvest which allows producers to manage cash flow challenges associated with larger harvests and increased production and staff costs. He went on to explain that some do not have the funds available to buy-back their wine. For him – cellar door sales is the only way to make money / pay the bills. He dedicates the summer weekends to pouring glasses of wine to those visiting his vineyard. He would be buggered without them (to quote). As a side – I saw a new winery (from my county of Kent) offering their still Rosé for £42.00 per bottle. Bonkers and out of touch with reality? Perhaps not, and it’s just me… Unquestionably, the wine market is at a pivotal point, and in some sectors, already at crisis level. Commencing today - the EU and US agree a trade deal, with 15% tariffs for European exports to America, which includes all wine and spirits. This is a major blow for both countries and will cause more sleepless nights for the Bordelaise. Unless a new tariff is agreed - En-Primeur will be dead in the US… China purchases have seriously slumped or stopped altogether. In May - The Chinese government imposed a sweeping ban on alcohol at official meals in its biggest crackdown on extravagance in public life. Once the gateway to China - Hong Kong continues to struggle. Previously, Vinorium sales to HK equalled all private client purchases. Today, the majority of merchants we worked with have disappeared off the map. The stupidity that was Brexit has been so detrimental to wine sales. Shipping from the UK to private, EU customers is not possible (unless you want to pay a ridiculous fee). More and more UK brokers and merchants are offering wines for sale that have not been purchased. Essentially, they are listing importers’ entire stock sheets and hoping for a sale. It’s by-the-case and there’s a delay for delivery. Again, they are entitled to make a living. But their broking margins are low and this practice dissuades stock holding merchants from selling these wines. Mindless, short-sighted stupidity from many an importer, and they are not getting the message. The global wine market is facing a complex set of challenges, including declining consumption, macroeconomic factors such as interest rate movements and geopolitical developments, and changing consumer behaviour. Nevertheless, and for those who are agile and willing, the industry is adapting to these changes, and the future will likely depend on its ability to navigate these evolving dynamics and capitalise on new opportunities. Part II: Next week we share our full performance for the year to date, which is super positive and, in many respects, bucks the trend. We examine the wine investment market which has wobbled to say the least, new opportunities for investors, the surge in e-commerce sales, premiumisation, the impact of climate change, and attempt to predict the next 2-3-years.    Il Cascinone Avamposti Altrove Nebbiolo Monferrato DOC 2022 "A bashful youth exuding subtle notes of plum, cherry, strawberry and baking spice on the nose framed by a crunchy, mouth-coating texture and fine-spun tannins. Stirring and lengthy with a delectable pomegranate acidity which prevails." The Nebbiolo vines were planted in 2005 on the lower slopes of a south-facing and very steep site at the south-east corner of the ‘Soliti’ plot - less than 1 hectare in total. After harvesting, and 15-16 days on skins, the wine is fermented in stainless steel, followed by up to two years in oak - 75% in botti and 25% in barriques (not new). £15.95 per bottle In case you missed it...  We are delighted to re-present one of the very best wines from the ’23 vintage, the outstanding Cherubino Margaret River Chardonnay, which Ray Jordan places on-par with Leeuwin Art Series and Pierro. Our first allocation sold-out within days. We have purchased the final 90-bottles directly from Larry’s dedicated importer who we also work with for Villa Maria’s Albariño and Robert Oatley The Pennant Chardonnay. Ray Jordan is one of the most respected wine critics in Australia and his knowledge (spanning over 40-years) regarding WA wine is second to none. Ask Ray how good was the 2023 Vintage? “In short, one of the greatest WA vintages of the last 50 years. No matter where you went around the state the wines were extraordinary. Everything happened just when it should have happened.” The Wine: Cherubino represents their signature wines from their best performing parcels of vineyards across Margaret River, Pemberton and the Great Southern. Handmade, with the utmost care and attention through every step of the winemaking journey from the vineyard to the bottle. The sum of their experiences, the Cherubino range is the best of the best. Winemaking: The fruit was hand-picked and whole-bunch pressed directly into 60% new French oak, 40% 1 year old French oak from a combination of forests - Vosges, Troncais and Allier. Juice is naturally fermented in barrel with only 10% allowed to go through full malolactic fermentation. “A thoroughly magnificent chardonnay that delivers a powerful statement presented with such finesse.”  Cherubino Margaret River Chardonnay 2023 SOLD OUT  “This is a global benchmark for Sauvignon Blanc.” "I was left thinking of some of the more textural and expressive Pouilly-Fumés that appeal to me, such is the control and formality that Dog Point shows on its finish." "This is just a top-notch white wine, full stop. Detailed, layered and moreish in every sense of the word." As you can imagine, Sauvignon Blanc reviews on Halliday.com are vast. Over 1,100 pages (circa 11,000 wines) have been reviewed and published. 97 Points is the highest rating for this varietal by any member of team Halliday. Only 17 wines have achieved 97 points including quite a few of our old favourites, which we previously imported from the Margaret River. Who remembers the superb collection from Stuart Pym and Janice McDonald of Flowstone (five of their Sav Blanc wines are in the top 17). Wistful memories... We must send Stuart and Janice an email as their wines were sensational. We digress as this centres around another one of our favourites, Dog Point (located on the hill slopes of the Southern Valleys of Marlborough, New Zealand.) – A winery that has been on our shelves since the birth of The Vinorium Dog Point is one of the oldest privately established vineyards in Marlborough with first plantings in the late 1970s. The property is sensitively planted to Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grown under organic principles. Only four wines are produced including one of our favourites, and arguably one of the best Sav Blancs on this planet. Section 94 which is fermented (on wild yeast) in older French oak barrels (Section 94). All their wines are vegan, vegetarian and gluten free reflecting their low interventionist ethos. All wines age incredibly well – a decade-old Section 94 is amazing. We have an order pending… History Ivan and Margaret Sutherland were among the earliest Marlborough wine industry pioneers who planted grapes in Marlborough in the late 1970s. While working at Cloudy Bay Vineyards, Ivan met James Healy, where the pair played an integral part of the evolution of the Cloudy Bay brand. Discovering they shared the same aspirations, Ivan & Margaret and James & Wendy returned to a more 'hands-on' approach launching the Dog Point label in 2004 using fruit from the 2002 vintage. Today, with succession plans in place, the next generation of the Sutherland family are now running the day to day operations.  Biodiversity which physically flows through the wines… Dog Point Vineyard is more than just a vineyard. A key part of their organic philosophy is the biodiversity of the property, and so a large area of land at Dog Point is devoted to pasture, landscaped lawn and pond spaces, with native plantings and walkways. Extensive organic vegetable gardens with roving chickens, and orchards with beehives, take pride of place in the north-eastern corner of the property, surrounded by vines. Olive trees and pine nut trees dot the landscape and are harvested each year for staff and guests to enjoy. Natives have been planted around pond spaces, and alongside Mill Stream, which winds through the property and attracts native birdlife in abundance.  DOG POINT
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