Petaluma Hanlin Hill Riesling 2012 (Magnum)

Stuart McCloskey, tasted 16 April 2026 “The colour alone is captivating - a deep, lustrous gold that shimmers with remarkable gloss and vitality. For a moment, you almost wonder if it could be spread on toast… such is its richness of hue. Curiosity led me to explore this through both Zalto Universal and Burgundy stems, keen to understand the influence on its evolved aromatics, texture and overall expression.

Aromatically, the Universal glass reveals pristine, finely etched detail - spiced citrus, lime and lime pickle, lifted by delicate white florals. The Burgundy glass offers a similar profile, though with a more pronounced orange blossom note, yet it feels slightly subdued in comparison. Everything returns to the Universal for a full and final assessment.

With extended air, the wine blossoms beautifully: honeysuckle, wet slate, confit lemon, and kaffir lime leaf unfold alongside fresh ginger shavings, all delivered with crystalline precision. A gentle whisper of sea salt adds further interest. It’s irresistibly inviting - one of those “come hither” bouquets that draws you back time and time again.

On the palate, the wine flows seamlessly, without a ripple of interference. There is a sense of calm confidence here - a Riesling that has aged with grace and intent. Citrus fruits and florals are now wrapped in a fine cloak of honeyed complexity, while a vibrant line of acidity zips through the mid-palate, delivering both balance and freshness in equal measure. The minerality is unmistakable, underscored by a subtle saline thread that enhances its precision.

This is a wine entering a deeply satisfying phase, very much aligned with its drinking window, yet with the structure and pedigree to evolve gracefully for at least another 6–8 years, if not longer. Age has brought both complexity and generosity in abundance, and we are all the better for it. Amen to the wonders of aged Riesling - one of life’s great vinous pleasures, and a firm personal favourite.”

Petaluma has long been regarded as one of Australia’s leading Riesling producers, a reputation built on the exceptional quality of fruit from its Hanlin Hill vineyard in the northeastern Clare Valley. Acquired in 1981, with original plantings dating back to 1968–69, the vineyard sits at an altitude of 509 metres, where cooler conditions help preserve natural acidity and aromatic purity. The site’s poor shale and loam soils, combined with low-yielding vines across 28 hectares, contribute to the wine’s concentration and distinctive mineral character.

Only fruit from Hanlin Hill is used in Petaluma’s Riesling, with rigorous selection ensuring only the best parcels are included. In the winery, a minimalist approach prevails - only the free-run juice is utilised, capturing the purest expression of the vineyard.

The result is a Riesling of precision and clarity - defined by vibrant citrus aromatics, a finely etched palate, and a hallmark line of acidity that promises both immediate appeal and outstanding ageing potential.